The definitve guide to EFI transplants
4AGE RWD Conversion: Transmission OptionsThis page deals with transmission options for getting the power from your 4AGE to the rear of your car. In simple terms there are only two gearbox options available, one of which is considerably superior to the other.
The T-50 bell housing has letters cast externally into the top section between the uppermost bell housing to engine block bolt bosses that identify the engine it came from ie 3A or 4AG etc. 3A and 4A bell housings have the clutch fork on the LHS while 4AG bell housings place it on the RHS.
The T-50 gearbox was fitted to other engines as well, such as 1S and 3T etc. The gearbox itself is identical, however, the bell housings differ to suit the parent engine. There are also two types of T-50 gearbox, referred to as 20 and 22 spline. This relates to the number of splines on the gearbox output shaft. Both gearboxes have the same number of splines on the input shaft. There is also a difference in the diameter of the input shaft bearing, which is covered by the bell housing: 62 mm vs 68 mm. The 68 mm bearing is in the 22 spline gearbox. The 22 spline gearbox is more desirable as it is stronger. It is also what all RWD 4AGEs came with.
In general terms gearboxes made 1983 or newer are 22 spline. This means that 3T, 1S, 3A and 4A engines have 22 spline units. 2Ts are 20 spline - so be careful. The AE 85/86 and AA 63 series T-50 gearboxes are 650 mm long from the engine end of the bell housing to the centre of the gearlever mount, however, some tail shaft housings fitted to earlier 20 spline gearboxes are shorter, hence allowing relocation of the gearlever with some mixing and matching of components.
In reality a 22 spline gearbox is the only one you can use because it is the only one that will mate correctly with an A series bell housing and handle the power.
The K-50 is normally found behind 3A 1500 cc SOHC engines fitted to AE 70 and AE 85 Corollas etc. The ONLY K-50 that will fit comes behind a 3A. Bell housings off any other motor will NOT fit a 4AGE.
In either case ensure you get the corresponding bell housing front cover plate (that bolts to the back of the block just ahead of the flywheel) and the 2 cast stays that bolt between the bottom of the block and the lower portion of the bell housing. Apparently the rear crankshaft bearings can flog out if these are omitted.
The K-50 is ideal for 4AGE conversions into KP 61 Starlets etc, ie cable clutch cars. Although it is not as strong as the T-50 you will probably get away with it in a light car, especially if you get a 22 spline version, although a 20 spline version will fit the starlet drive shaft yoke.
Some potential sources for T-50 Close ratio gear sets are:
Note: There appears to be a relationship between Quaife and TRD on T50 parts. It is suspected the TRD gear sets are actually manufactured by Quaife.
Apparently one trick is to fit tight steel straps around the split case part of the T-50 to help hold the two halves together. This allegedly helps prevent the two halves separating, dumping the oil and the gearbox then dying. If anyone can vouch for this I would be interested to know.
The K-50 will handle the lesser powered 4AGEs in a normal weight car, however, the T-50 is recommended. The K-50 really comes into its own for easy conversion of Starlets and early Corollas with cable clutches to 4AGE. Although the gearlever may require a new hole in the transmission tunnel it is quite likely the K-50 will bolt to the existing gearbox cross member, requiring only engine mounts to be fabricated. (Note - the 4AGE will bolt into 3A sub-frames - and some KE 70 series Corollas came with 3A engines…)
I would certainly not recommend putting a K-50 behind a 4AGZE…
The bolts are high tensile and quite expensive so I suggest you buy the bare minimum you require. If the exact bolt sizes are not available, you may have to buy the next longest bolt and cut to size. Don’t forget to use spring washers.
Clutches and flywheels are interchangeable between all motors, however, they must be changed as a unit - a 212 mm pressure plate will not fit the other flywheels.
The 200 and 212 mm clutches will fit a T-50 gearbox - the input splines are the same, irrespective of the number of output splines, and the clutches and flywheels fit inside the bell housing. The 200 mm clutch fits the K-50, but I am unsure if the 212 mm will. All the clutches fitted to the various 4AGEs will work with the standard T-50 release bearing etc. Use a 5/8" clutch master cylinder.
The 224 mm 4AGZE clutch and flywheel assembly will not fit inside the T-50 bell housing, and the 224 mm clutch plate has a larger diameter spline than the T-50 input shaft - in fact it fits the W-55 series ‘Supra’ gearboxes. I believe that it may be possible to modify the 4AGZE clutch and flywheel assembly to fit the T-50 bell housing with careful application of a die grinder and substitution of pressure plate bolts for dome headed cap screws. If you decide to go down this path be very careful to ensure sufficient strength remains to prevent the assembly coming apart at 7500+ rpm and amputating your ankles… I personally would not do this.
Custom built paddle/puck/button clutches may be the answer if you suffer from clutch slippage with standard items. By all accounts heavier pressure plates are generally a waste of time provided the correct material is used for the clutch plate. Clutch plates with solid centres transmit a lot of shock to the gears during changes - I have sold a number of Supra gearboxes to people running V8 etc with solid clutches - harsh changes just snap the teeth right off the gears...
Lightened billet flywheels are also available for the engines.
If you need to get an old bearing out the easiest way I know is to squirt/pack grease in through the centre of the bearing to fill the cavity behind it. This area is reasonably large so don’t be surprised when it seems to take forever to fill up. Then take a close fitting bolt, place it in the centre of the bearing and hit it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure will force the old bearing out. Don’t forget to use safety glasses etc.
"The gearbox speedo worm drive ratios I know of include 5 x 19, 6 x 20, 6 x 22 etc. (ie 5 starts on the worm gear and 19 teeth on the driven gear). Most speedos are 637 rpk, 675 or 1000 rpk (revs per km). So lets say that to cover 1 km of distance your output shaft at the gearbox will turn how many revs?
Say a tyre diameter of 590mm: Circumference = 22/7
x .59 = 1.854m
The small gear will have written on it the number of starts on the worm it would be compatible with (ie 5 or 6). Using a 5 start gear on a 6 start worm is always terminal. The worm slides off easy enough but requires practically stripping the whole gearbox…"
Remember that a 0.86 5th gear combined with a 4.44 ratio diff is equivalent to a four speed gearbox and a 3.8 diff.
Any good tyre shop should be able to supply rolling diameter specs for the tyres it sells. If not then rolling diameter (excluding tyre squash due to car weight - which you can assume to be consistent) can be figured thus: tread width * aspect ratio gives sidewall height. Multiply this by 2 (two sidewalls contribute to one diameter overall) and add to it the rim diameter.
Thus 195/60 x 14 equates to (195 x 0.6 * 2) + (14 * 25.4) = 589.6mm = 23.2 in. Multiply this by pi to give circumference = 3.1412 x 0.5896 = 1.85 metres, so for every revolution of the wheel the car moves by 1.85 metres.
My car does 6500 rpm in top gear at max speed - that is 6500/0.86 (fifth gear ratio) = 7558 drive shaft rpm. This in turn passes thru a 4.44 diff ratio, so divide 7558 by 4.44 to give 1702 axle rpm. This means that a wheel is doing 1702 rpm, which is 1702 * 1.85 = 3149 metres/minute.
Multiply by 60 (minutes in hour) then divide by 1000 (metres in kilometre) and you get 188.95 kilometres/hour speed, which if you divide by 1.62 gives 116.6 mph. My car indicates 115 mph at this speed - not bad speedo calibration huh?
To compare a 185/70 x 13 tyre (what I used to have): (185 * 0.7 x 2)+ (13 * 25.4)= 589.2 mm diameter vs 589.6 mm for a 14 inch 60 profile - pretty close to the same, especially once tread wear occurs.
A friend runs the same box and diff as me, but 185/60 x 13 tyres: (185 * 0.6 x 2) + (13 x 25.4) = 552.2 mm diameter vs my 589.6: now divide one by the other: 552.2/589.6 = 0.936 ie his diameter is 0.936 or 93.6% of mine. Since this directly relates to engine rpm, and our gear ratios are the same (otherwise you have to account for these in the same way) his engine will do 1/0.936 more rpm at the same speed in the same gear = 6940 rpm.
Alternatively if I put his wheels on my car, my speed would drop to 116.6 * 0.936 = 109.1 mph at the same revs (6500).
Copyright © 2000 SpeedTECH Last modified: January 23, 2000